Tips & Tricks for Choosing Gemstone
Estimating Carat Weight Gemstone Terms Defined
Judging Ruby color How Lighting Affects Ruby Color
Ruby or Pink Sapphire? Describing Rubies by Place of Origin
Judging Sapphire Colors Describing Sapphire by Place of Origin
Internal Clarity Features of Natural Ruby, Sapphire
Estimating Carat Weight
Table of Weight Conversions
1 pennyweight (DDT) = 1.555 g = 0.05 oz t = 0.055 oz av = 7.776 cts
1 troy ounce (oz t) = 31.103 g = 1.097 oz av = 20 DDT = 155.51 cts
1 ounce avoirdupois(oz av) = 28.3495 g = 0.911 oz t = 18.229 DDT
1 carat (ct) = 0.2 g = 0.006 oz t = 0.007 oz av = 0.31 DDT
1 gram (g) = 5 cts = 0.032 oz t = 0.035 ozav = 0.643 DDT
Table of Shape & Approximate Weights of Calibrated, Faceted Emerald & Corundum
Shape Size (mm) Emerald Weight Corundum Weight Shape Size (mm) Emerald Weight Corundum Weight
Round 2 .03 - .04 .03 - .05 Emerald Cut 5 * 3 .23 - .29 .27 - .36
2.5 .05 - .06 .06 - .08 6 * 4 .45 - .52 57 - .70
3 .09 - .12 .11 - .14 6.5 * 4.5 .56 - .71 .78 - .97
3.5 .15 - .19 .18 - .23 7 * 5 .75 - .95 1.00 - 1.28
4 .20 - .27 .26 - .34 7.5 * 5.5 1.00 - 1.22 1.35 - 1.60
4.5 .28 - .38 .38 - .48 8 * 6 1.30 - 1.55 1.73 - 2.10
5 .40 - .48 52 - .63 9 * 7 2.05 - 2.38 2.65 - 3.10
5.5 .50 - .65 .69 - .85 10 * 8 2.85 - 3.45 3.85 - 4.35
6 .70 - .81 81 .89 - 1.08
6.5 .90 - 1.02 1.14 - 1.30 Oval 5 * 3 .16 - .25 .19 - .30
7 1.15 - 1.28 1.42 - 1.70 6 * 4 .35 - .48 .42 - .55
7.5 1.40 - 1.60 1.74 - 2.05 6.5 * 4.5 .45 - .55 .57 - .75
7 * 5 .60 - .83 .76 - .99
Marquise 6 * 3 .15 - .22 .18 - .27 8 * 6 .95 - 1.23 1.25 - 1.60
8 * 4 .42 - .52 .50 - .67 9 * 7 1.60 - 1.84 2.15 - 2.60
10 * 5 .82 - 1.05 .98 - 1.29 10 * 8 2.10 - 2.50 2.77 - 3.29
12 * 6 1.40 - 1.60 1.70 - 2.20 12 * 10 4.2 - 4.7 5.21 - 6.30
Square 2 .04 - .05 .05 - .07 Pear 5 * 3 .16 - .22 .21 - .27
2.5 .11 - .13 .13 - .16 6 * 4 .30 - .42 .40 - .50
3 .13 - .19 .16 - .21 7 * 5 .60 - .73 .72 - .87
4 .30 - .35 .35 - .44 8 * 5 .69 - .84 .83 - 1.00
5 .55 - .60 .69 - .80 9 * 6 1.10 - 1.31 1.34 - 1.59
6 .97 - 1.08 1.20 - 1.36 10 * 7 1.69 - 2.00 2.02 - 2.28
Note: These weights are only guides. The actual weights will vary depending on the depth.
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Gemstone Terms Defined
Before you can throughly understand a discussion of shapes and cutting styles, some terminology must be expained.
Facets The flat, polished surfaces or planes on a stone.
Table The large, flat top facet. It normally has an octagonal shape on a round stone.
Girdle The narrow rim around the stone. The girdle plane is parallel to the table and is the largest diameter of the stone.
Crown The upper part of the stone above the girdle.
Pavilion The lower part of the stone below the girdle.
Culet The tiny facet on the pointed bottom of the pavilion, parallel to the table. Sometimes the point of a stone is called "the culet" even if no culet facet is present, which is usually the case with rubies and sapphires.
Fancy Any shape except round. This term is most frequently applied to diamonds.
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Judging Ruby color
The color can be divided into the three components below:
Hue Refers to basic colors such as red, orange and purple as well as transition colors like orangy red and purplish red.
Lightness/darkness (Tone) Refers to the amount of color. The lightest possible tone is colorless. The darkest is black. tone is another word for the degree of lightness or darkness. It describes tone by following terms: very light, light, medium light, medium, medium dark, dark, very dark.
Color purity The degree to which the hue is hidden by brown or gray. This book will describe color purity loosely with terms such as "highly pure" and "slightly brownish or grayish." Color purity is termed saturation in the GIA color grading system, and colors with a minimum amount of brown or gray are described as vivid or strong. The American Gemological Laboratories uses intensity to refer to color purity.
.....The terms saturation and intensity have other meanings as well. When some dealers describe the color of a stone as saturated, they mean it has both a high purity and good depth of color (tone). To them, a light pure color is neighter saturated, nor strong, nor intense. "Saturation" sometimes only refers to the tone of pure colors. This is how "saturation" is used in GemDialogue, a color reference system used by many appraisers and jewelers.
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How Lighting Affects Ruby Color
.....When you shop for gems, your choice of lighting will probably be limited. Use the information below to help you compensate for improper lighting when you judge color. Some of the data is from an article by Howard Rubin, "The Effects of Lighting on Gemstone Colors."
Type of Lighting Effect of Lighting on Gem Color
Sunlight At midday, it normally has a neutral effect on the hue. Earlier and later in the day, it adds red, orange or yellow, making stones look more red, orange or purple.

No matter what their hue, rubies will look brighter and less black in the more direct, intense light of mid-day, summer or tropical sun. This difference in tone and color purity will also make them appear redder. Another effect of sunlight is that its ultraviolet rays can cause a red fluorescence or glow in rubies, which also makes them look redder. Rubies from Burma are particularly noted for their strong red fluorescence.

Incandescent light bulbs, penlights and candlelight Add red. Red colors are strengthened, warm colors appear more alike, grayish colors may look brownish, and green may look darker and a littles more yellowish or less bluish.
Fluorescent lights Depends on what type they are. Most strengthen blue colors, making sapphires look more blue. Warm white tubes add yellow.
Halogen spotlights Add sparkle and usually add yellow.
Light under an overcast sky or in the shade Adds blue and gray. Reds appear more purplish, greens&purples look more bluish, yellows look greener, blues appear stronger.
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Ruby or Pink Sapphire?
.....In English and other Indo-european languages, there's a seperate term for light red "pink." Therefore, if we define ruby as red-colored corundum and all other colors as sapphire, pink stones are by definitionsapphire. Many Asian languages have just one color term for dark to light red. therefore Asians can't understand why Europeans and Americans call light red corundum "pink sapphire," especially since the term didn't exist piror to the 20th century.

.....In 1989, the International Colored Gemstone Association(ICA) adopted a nomenclature that calls all pink and red corundum "ruby." One of the main reasons for adopting one term is that nobody agrees on where to draw the line between ruby and pink sapphire. Occasionally, people even spend money taking corundum stones to gem labs just to determine if they're pink or red. Ultimately it becomes a judgment call.

.....A high percentage of the grading and classification terminology for gems is subjective. For example, there's no general agreement on the exact tonal boundaries of a padparadscha, an orange-pink sapphire. Gem connoisseurs just know that it isn't dark. there's no agreement either on the exact boundaries of an orange-red ruby or a red-orange sapphire and padparadscha is not a good enough reason for us to abandon these terms. Likewise, the lack of a clear dividing line between ruby and pink sapphire is not a valid argument for eliminating the term "pink sapphire" from our vocabulary.

.....The ICA nomenclature is not universally applied. Most of the gem trade in Europe and North America, for example, prefers to treat the pink sapphire as a unique stone with its own merits, rather than as a lower-priced ruby. High-quality pink sapphires are rare and can cost many thousand dollars per carat.

.....Tone is not the only factor used to distinguish ruby from pink sapphire. Hue can also be important. Hot pink, for example, is not light in color;nonetheless it's called pink. The hue of hot pink, however, falls between red and purple, giving it a different look than either of these colors. In the print and photo industries, a red -purple color is called magenta. The general public, however, often calls it "hot pink" or "pink" depending on the depth of color.

.....Once in a while ruby is defined as corundum that's colored mainly by chromium, a metalliec element incorporated into the mineral as an impurity. Dr. Horst Krupp, a mineralogist and dealer, says he determines if a stone is a ruby with the aid of a spectroscope, an instrument which measures how the stone absorbs light. If a reddish corundum stone shows lines in the spectroscope indicating the color is clearly coming from the presence of chromium, then he calls it ruby; otherwise he calls it red sapphire. He was taught to define rubies this way at the University of Heidelberg in Germany.

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Describing Rubies by Place of Origin
.....Historically, the greatest percentage of high -quality untreated rubies have originated from the Mogok region of Myanmar. For this reason, Myanmar has become known as the world's finest source of rubies. This fame has increased the demand for Burmese rubies. And because of the higher demand, a premium is normally charged for expensive, high-quality Burmese rubies with an origin report from a respected laboratory. However, don't be disappointed if someone gives you a ruby which is not from Mogok. Beautiful, top-quality rubies have come from Thailand, Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Vietnam, Tanzania, Kena, Malawi, and Afghanistan.

.....Listed below are some general characteristics of rubies from three of the best known sources, Myanmar(Mogok), Thailand and Sri Lanka. A description of lower qualities of Burma ruby is not included because such stones do not merit premium prices based on place of origin. Keep in mind that the qualities, colors and inclusions of gems can overlap from one source to another. Some of the world's best labs have mistakenly identified Cambodian or Tanzanian rubies, for example, as Burmese. A much more detailed description of rebies from various world sources can be found in Ruby & Sapphire by Richard W. Hughes.

Some characteristics of high-quality Mogok, Myanmar (Burma) rubies are:
-The hue ranges from orangy red to purplish red to pinkish red.
-The tone ranges from medium to medium dark.
-There is hardly any brown or gray masking the hue. (In other words, there is a minimal amount of brown or gray present. Consequently, the color of the stone is a more intense red). The purer the color the better.
-They have a good red fluorescence which is intensified under sunlight or incandescent light.
-Black extinction areas are at a minimum. The stones tend to look red throughout, even on the facets which are not directly exposed to light.
-The color is highly saturated as a result of the tone, purity of color and fluorescence.
-Pink overtones are often present.
-Color zoning is common.

Characteristics of Sri Lanka(Celyon) rubies:
-The hue usually ranges from purplish red to red.
-The tone normally ranges from medium to very light. The lightest tones are the least valuable. in Europe and North America, medium light to very light red stones are called pink sapphires.
-They have a good red fluorescence under sunlight and incandescent light.
-There are relatively few dark extinction areas due to the red fluorescence and lighter color of these stones.
-The color is often unevenly distributed.

Characteristics of
Thai rubies:
-The hue usually ranges from purplish red to orangy red.
-The tone usually ranges from medium dark to very dark, but the medium dark tones are more valuable.
-The hue is often masked by more gray, black or brown than in Burma rubies. The purer the color the better.
-There tend to be a lot of black exinction areas. The more red and the less black the better.
-Color zoning is rare.
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Judging Sapphire Colors
.....When used by itself, the term sapphire normally refers to the blue. In its highest qualities, it's more expensive than the other sapphire colors, with the exception of like-quality padparadscha. Frequently, the best color of sapphire is described as a cornflower blue. Most likely, your mental image of this color is different than that of your jeweler. Even though cornflowers grow like weeds in Europe and Northern Asia, many people in North America and in the Southern hemisphere have never seen a blue cornflower. Cornflowers come in varying shades of blue and violet as well as pink, purple, white and yellow, so "cornflower blue" evokes a wide array of color images even to people that have seen the flower. Ther are different opinions as to what is the best sapphire hue. some say blue;others say violetish blue. Most dealers agree, however, that greenish blues are less valuable. The GIA in its colored-stone grading course(1989 charts) describes the most expensive sapphire color as either medium-dark, vivid blue or medium-dark, vivid violetish blue.
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Describing Sapphire by Place of Origin
.....When you shop for gems, remember that sapphires which are called "Burmese" or "Kashmir" do not necessarily come from these places even though they should. You need to ask salespeople exactly what they mean by these terms when they use them. If a saphire was actually mined in Myanmar (Burma) or Kashmir, it will normally cost more than if it's from somewhere else, providing it's of good quality and is accompanied by an origin report from a respected laboratory. If it's of mediocre quality, it doesn't matter wher it was mined or if it comes with a country of origin report; you shouldn't pay more than the quality dictates.

.....Listed below are characteristics of sapphires from threefive of the best known sources: Kashmir, Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Thailand and Australia. Sapphires are also found in Cambodia, colombia, Madagascar, Nigeria, Tanzania and the USA (Montana). Keep in mind that the qualities, colors of gems can overlap from one source to another. A description of lower qualities of kashmir and Burma sapphires is not included below because such stones do not merit premium prices based on place of origin. Even though Kashmir and Burma sapphires have the most prestige, low-quality stones from these sources should not be priced any differently than low-quality stones from other sources. Their quality and size should determine their price.

Characteristics of high-quality Kashmir sapphires:
-The hue usually ranges from violetish blue to blue.
-The tone normally ranges from medium to medium dark.
-Gray color masking is at a minimum. The purer the color the better.
-They have a powdery, velvety appearance.
-Dark extinction areas are at a minimum. Consequenctly, the blue is more predominant than in stones from other areas.
-Their color tends to be more dark extinction areas than in Kashmir and Sri Lanka sapphires but fewer than in stones from Thailand and Australia.
-The color is highly saturated thanks to the tone and color purity.

Characteristics of high-quality
Burma sapphires:
-The hue ranges from violetish blue to blue. The most prized stones are sometimes described as having an "electric blue" color.
-The tone is usually in the medium dark range, but some stones are lighter.
-Gray color masking is at a minimum. The purer the color the better.
-The color tends to be more evenly distributed than in Kashmir and Sri Lanka sapphires.
-There tend to be more dark extinction areas than in Kashmir and Sri Lanka sapphires but fewer than in stones from Thailand and Australia.
-The color is highly saturated because of the tone, color purity and uniform color.

Characteristics of
Sri Lanka sapphires: (They follow Kashmir and Burma Sapphires in terms of prestige.)
-The hue usually ranges from violetish blue to blue.
-The tone usually ranges from medium dark to very light. The light and very light tones are the least valuable.
-The hue is often masked by gray. The less gray there is the better the color.
-The color is often unevently distributed. the more even the color the better.
-Normally they have more brilliance and fewer dark extinction areas than other sapphires. This is mainly due to the lighter color of the Sri Lanka stones.
-Their color is usually less saturated than that of Kashmir and Burma sapphires. Light tones, gray color masking and uneven color contribute to the lower saturation levels. The more saturated the color the greater the value

Characteristics of
Thai/ Cambodian & Australian sapphires: (Thai sapphires have more prestige than Australian sapphires, but it's not easy to tell the difference between the two. Sapphires that are sold as Thai sapphires are frequently from Australia.)
-The hue ranges from violetish blue to greenish blue. Greenish-blue hues are generally considered the least valuable.
-The tone usually ranges from very dark to medium dark. The medium dark tones are the most valuable.
-The hue is often masked by a fair amount of gray or black. The purer the color the better.
-There tends to be a lot of black extinction areas. The more blue and the less black the more valuable the stone.
-The color is less saturated than in Kashmir and Burma sapphires.
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Internal Clarity Features of Natural Ruby, Sapphire
.....Opinions differ as to how various clarity features should be classified. Some feel the term "inclusion" should be reserved for foreign matter with in a gemstone. We will use broader definition, which is found in the GIA Daimond Grading Course: Inclusions are characteristics which are entirely inside a stone or extend into it from the surface. As you examine rubies and sapphires under magnification, you may wonder what inclusions you are looking at. Listed below are inclusions you can find in these gemstone:

-Crystals are solid mineral inclusions of various shapes and sizes. Examples of minerals found in corumdum (ruby & sapphire) are pyrite, garnet, zircon, calcite and spinel. Minute crystals are sometimes called pinpoints or grains, and when they are grouped together, they may look like comets, galaxies or falling stars.

-Negative crystals or voids are hollow spaces inside a stone that have the shape of a crystal. They often resemble solid crystals, so for purposes of clarity grading, they're simply called "included crystals."

-Silk in corundum consists of very fine fibers of rutile(titanium dioxide) or other minerals. It can also be made of mineral grains arranged in straight rows. These fibers or rows intersect and resemble silk, hence the name. Well-formed silk can be proof that a stone was not heat treated to improve its color. Very high temperatures tend to dissolve it and make it look fuzzy or dot-like. Since untreated stones are more valued than treated ones, the presence of clear, well-formed silk can be welcome sign.

-Needles are long, thin inclusions that are either solid crystals or tubes filled with gas or liquid, which are called growth tubes.

-Parting (false cleavage), which occurs in corundum, refers to breakage along a plane of weakness. Mineralogist John S. White has determined that parting planes are actually thin seams of another mineral, normally boehmite.

-Twinning can occur when two or more crystals of the same mineral are united with a symmetric relationship. In faceted corundum, twinning usually appears as straight lines, which are in essence flattened twinning planes.

-Halos are circular fractures surrounding a crystal. These structures generally result from stress created by radioactive decay of the crystal inside the halo or from extreme heat. during heat treatment, the included crystal can expand, producing a circular fracture which tends to have a glassy appearance and/or a lacy fringe on the outermost edges of the fracture. the central crystal often melts, sometimes producing a snowball-like core.

-Fingerprints, common in corundum, are thought to be healed cracks. These inclusions often look like human fingerprints, but they may also resemble loopy veils.

-Saturn-like inclusions have a central core with the form of a flattened sphere surrounded by a planar circular, radiating fingerprint. The core can be solid, fluid/gas filled or hollow. The surface of the core may be very smooth and metalic or granular like a snowball, sometimes with a black "pepper-like" appearance. Saturn-like inclusions are often found in THai/Cambodian rubies and are a good example of an inclusion that helps gemologists determine country of origin.

-Growth or color zoning refers to an uneven distribution of color in a stone. If the different color zones look like bands, they are called growth or color bands.

-Cavities are holes or indentations extending into a stone from the surface. Cavities can result when negative crystals or tubes are exposed or when solid crystals are pulled out of a stone during the cutting- process.

-Chips are notches or broken off pieces of stone along the girdle edge or at the culet.

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